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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a family member, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest place achieving such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider importance of this culinary achievement.